EDGER BLADES BLADE

!: EDGER BLADES BLADE

EDGER BLADES @ eds-bargain-shack.ecrater.com NEW & USED OUTDOOR POWER EQUIPMENT PARTS @ eds-bargain-shack.ecrater.com & www.bonanzle.com & go.sell.com & EDSBARGAINSHACK.Webstore.com Thanks Ed

EDGER BLADES BLADE

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Blower-Vac update

!: Blower-Vac update

BV-1650 Suggestions anyone besides buying a new carbuerator or somthing lol Its a 1997 Blower-Vac (By MTD) Leafblower. Any questions ask, Rate, Comment, Subscribe, Check out my channel, And have fun! PEACE!

Blower-Vac update

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Yard Machines 24A-452G700 205cc Briggs & Stratton 800 Series Gas-Powered Chipper Shredder

!: discounted Yard Machines 24A-452G700 205cc Briggs & Stratton 800 Series Gas-Powered Chipper Shredder Order Now

Brand : Yard Machines | Rate : | Price : $523.69
Post Date : Nov 13, 2011 04:54:03 | Usually ships in 4-5 business days

Yard Machines 24A-452G700 205cc Briggs & Stratton 800 Series Gas-Powered Chipper Shredder

Yard Machines, Stationary Chipper/Shredder, 205CC, Briggs & Stratton 800 Series OHV Engine, 8.00 Ft.-Lbs. Gross Torque Rating, 2' Chipper Capacity, 10:1 Debris Reduction Ratio, 2.5 Bushel Bag Capacity, Poly Drop-Down & Rake-In Hopper, 3-Way Feed System, Steel Chipper Blade, 10' Wheels, 2 Year Limited Warranty.

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Small Engines Q & A Video #40 in HD

!: Small Engines Q & A Video #40 in HD

Welcome to my weekly series where your Small Engine questions are answered. Visit my channel for more repair videos; www.youtube.com

Small Engines Q & A Video #40 in HD

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Maintenance Tips and Restringing Weed Eaters

!: Maintenance Tips and Restringing Weed Eaters

In landscape industries and in homes, weed eaters are very important. They are needed to reduce or remove weeds. Weed eaters are made of aluminum or steel bars with a motor and blade or nylon string on two different ends. There are weed eater models with two handles. Others are just comprised of a single handle.
 
Weed eaters needs very little maintenance. It should only be kept clean all the time. Dust it off with dirt, grass or weeds that clog the head. An air blower or compressor will help remove these unwanted elements. But without this accessory, cleaning is as good as doing it manually. You can use pointed objects to remove dirt in the littlest corners.

For weed eaters that use strings, it will be kept in tiptop shape if you replace the strings regularly. Normally, strings are replaced once it becomes thinner and looks like it is about to break off. But for better maintenance, you can set a regular period for replacing, say once a month or once in two months.

Thread the string properly while making sure that the string you use is of adequate length - not too long and not too short. The string should not scrape with the plastic cover which goes around the string. It your weed eater has a roll hooked, you just simply have to press the head and pull the string once the string thins out. Continue pulling the string until you get the right length.
 
Be sure that all the gadgets you need are ready before you start trimming. Prepare all the extra strings that you need and also the blades ahead of time. If you have a gas power weed eater, have an extra gas on the container. If it is electric, have a longer extension cord for use.
 
For rethreading, it is a fairly easy process. All you have to do is buy a new spool of plastic line. Use this to replace the old one, pull out a bit of it so that it sticks out past its opening - two inches is enough. After this, snap the new spool in and your weed eater is ready to move.
 
When talking about the string of the weed eater, for non commercial models its diameters ranges from 0.065 to 0.095 inches. But to be sure of the size, follow the recommendation in the user's manual. Weed eater's string should be well maintained. When you noticed that the string is already low, remove the lower part of the head by removing the lower part; push it slightly then turn clockwise. Cut the new string. It should not be shorter than 6 inches, otherwise, your weed eater will not advance its string properly when used.
 
Be sure to thread the string back following the guides properly. If you do not put it the right way, there is a possibility that the head will pop off during use. After that replace bottom of the head - push and turn it clockwise. An easier option is to just buy the string replacement cartridge. Although this is more expensive, it saves a lot of time, and also eliminates the hassle of stringing the machine yourself.

Maintenance Tips and Restringing Weed Eaters

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Factory Reconditioned Ryobi ZR08510 25.4cc Gas-Powered Variable-Speed Hand-Held Blower/Vacuum/Mulcher

!: Shop Factory Reconditioned Ryobi ZR08510 25.4cc Gas-Powered Variable-Speed Hand-Held Blower/Vacuum/Mulcher buy

Brand : Ryobi | Rate : | Price : $69.99
Post Date : Nov 05, 2011 11:57:16 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days

Factory Reconditioned Ryobi ZR08510 25.4cc Gas-Powered Variable-Speed Hand-Held Blower/Vacuum/Mulcher

This is a factory reconditioned product. Reconditioned generally means that the product has been returned to the manufacturer, who brings the product back to like new condition. Some products may contain cosmetic blemishes. Includes 25.4-cc Gas Powered Variable Speed Hand Held Blower/Vacuum/Mulcher - ZR08510, Upper Blower Tube, Sweeper Nozzle, High Velocity Nozzle, Vacuum Handle, Vacuum Handle Knobs, Upper and Assembly, Vacuum Bag Adaptor, Operators Manual

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Small Engine Maintenance - Float Style Carburetors

!: Small Engine Maintenance - Float Style Carburetors

Float style carburetors are common on small engines used on gas powered outdoor equipment, in particular the lawn and garden tractor. Many times when the engine is running rough or is hunting badly (engine speed not constant) it is because the carburetor needs a good cleaning and service.

Preparation

Record the engine type and serial number then obtain the relevant carburetor kit, engine and filter gaskets. Prepare a clean work area, an area of NO SMOKING or NAKED FLAME (gasoline vapors ignite very easily). Basic tools required are set of wrenches (socket or open ended), needle nose pliers, can of carburetor cleaner, a container to clean parts and a container to store parts.

Carburetor Removal

Take a photograph or make a pencil sketch of the choke linkage, governor linkage and springs connected to the carburetor. This will save a great deal of heartache when you come to reassemble. Shut off fuel to carburetor before removing the fuel line to the carburetor.  Some have a fuel shut off valve, if not clamp the rubber fuel hose with a G clamp, or drain into a clean container.

Remove the air filter, the carburetor fixing nuts (screws) and governor spring.  Ease the carburetor away from the engine, twisting as you do so to disengage the Z shape linkages to the choke and throttle valves. Note that there will be fuel still in the bowl at the base of the carburetor. Tip carburetor upside down to let the fuel drain out into a container.

Carburetor Disassembly

Now that you have the complete carburetor in your hand and before attempting to take it apart, look for the two screw (some have only one) with springs under the screw head.  These will be the idle and high speed adjustment screw.  Count the number of turns required to screw home the needle, about one & one and a half for the main jet and 1 time for the idle jet.  Make a note as this will be the setting will to be used later.

Remove the high speed and idle adjusting screw, clean and place in a container ready for reassembling. Remove the bowl fixing nut, on some carburetors this nut is where the high speed  adjustment  screw is located.  Clean the nut and replace washer if required.  Those that house the high speed needle will have one or two small fuel transfer holes. These do get clogged - clean out with thin wire (obtain thin floral arranging wire from a craft shop). The float is next, watch out for the fuel inlet needle and how it is attached to the float hinge.  Some of the brass floats do leak after a time, check by shaking float to hear if fuel is sloshing about, if so replace the float.

Use carburetor cleaner and spray outside, then the inside of the carburetor, the air and needle orifices. WATCH YOUR EYES - USE GOGGLES. Ensure that the choke and butterfly valves move freely and that the throttle and choke return springs are closing the valves. 

If they are weak or broken then replace them by unscrewing the butterfly valve and removing spindle, then reassemble with new springs. Inside the venturi at the throttle valve end, there are 2 or 3 small holes (need to move the valve to open position to see them). I use a staple with one leg bent straight and using needle pliers cleaned out those ports. DO NOT FORCE IF STAPLE IS LARGER IN DIAMETER THAN THE PORT DIAMETER.

Reassemble

Insert fuel needle and float. Fit the bowl to the carburetor with a new 'O' ring. Screw in the high speed and idle needles (don't forget the tension springs, 'O' ring and washer) until they just seat, then  back off the screws by the number of turns you recorded when disassembling.  These settings should    enable the engine to start, if not, screw both needles back in until they just seat. Back off the idle screw one turn and the high speed by 1&1/2 turns. Final needle adjustment is done when the engine tests are conducted.  

Using the photos taken or your sketch, insert the governor and choke linkage, then with a new gasket fit the carburetor to the engine body.  Reconnect the governor spring into the hole on the throttle cam, usually the same hole as the governor linkage. Reconnect fuel line and filter cover (with new gasket) to the body of the carburetor. Replace worn or dirty air filters

Adjustment

Start engine and allow it to warm up to normal operating temperature (3-5 minutes).  Set the throttle control to the maximum speed position, then turn the high speed mixture control in (clockwise) slowly until the engine runs erratic. Note that screw position.  Now back off the screw (counter clockwise) until the engine again begins to run erratic. Note that screw position, then screw back in to the mid position at which point the engine should be running smoothly.

Set the throttle control to idle or slow position and adjust the idle mixture screw in the same manner as you did with the high speed mixture control. Some times after setting the idle screw you may need to go back and readjust the high speed setting.

Disclaimer - This article is intended as a guide and is generic and therefore I cannot be held liable for injury or damage. There are many types of carburetors used on small engines, each with their own means of controlling the fuel/air mixture to the engine. However the above is typical of many carburetors used on small engines that I've serviced and repaired during the years I owned an outdoor power equipment sales and service business.

Small Engine Maintenance - Float Style Carburetors

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